Now that we’ve spent months staring at ourselves on screen, it can be clear that dark circles can show up that much more intensely on camera than when you’re in the mirror—the lighting can make the pigmentation look darker and more pronounced. Figuring out the best makeup tricks to mask it is key, and that’s where the pros come in. Here, two of the industry’s most in-demand artists tell you how to get the smoothest, most flawless finish ever.
1. De-puff the eyes
Use an ice pack, cool eye gels or a cool teaspoon on the eyes and massage around the area. The coolness helps constrict the blood vessels, and the pressure can activate the body’s natural response to drain the pooled fluid in the area.
2. Apply eye cream
“I can look at a client’s face and tell if they use eye cream or not,” says Maria Asadi, who works with celebrities like Sonam Kapoor Ahuja and Jourdan Dunn. “It’s important to hydrate and nourish the skin, because if you don’t, your concealer and corrector will sit on top rather than sink in,” she says.
3. Then, layer on foundation
Use a foundation all over, blending in a very thin layer under your eyes. “Most of my clients from India have a neutral skin undertone, which is often a combination of pink and yellow,” says Asadi. She suggests applying it with a finger to create a dense coverage, and then blend it with a damp beauty sponge. If you’re still looking for the right foundation for you, makeup artist Daniel Bauer has a trick: “Blend a light and dark shade together and apply it above your jawline, blending it into your cheek and your neck. If the shades blend both ways naturally, you’ve found the perfect shades for you,” he says.
4. Use a corrector
“You can’t use just a foundation over really dark circles as it will show up ashy. A corrector uses colour theory to cancel out the tones of pigmentation or bruised eyes so you can conceal on top,” explains Asadi. She likes using an orange corrector to neutralise the purple tones in the skin. She suggests using a beauty sponge to apply a thin layer in a press-push method, which will give you a translucent wash of orange and then you can conceal on top. It allows you to use less product to counterbalance the darkness, so you can avoid your thick or cakey layer of concealer from pilling. This is particularly important for when you’re going to be taking high-res photos, because you want the thinnest layers applied.
5. Blend in a concealer
On the under-eyes, it is best to use a light-reflective formula that’s a shade lighter than your skin to brighten up the area. “It is important to pick a concealer that works for your skin type. If you have fine lines, you need a more dense, matte and firm concealer that does not crease. For relatively smooth skin, you can go for a more hydrating liquid option,” says Asadi. If you want more pigment, pick a creamy stick or a pot.
Deposit small dots of concealer at the inner third of the eye as well as the outer corner with a synthetic bristle brush. Then, use the pads of your fingers to push-press it in. Stay away from getting too close to the lashes, as that can create buildup and creasing. If you need to add more pigment, add it in thin layers.
6. Set it well
Use blotting papers to take down the shine in the area, and then use a small brush to apply setting powder in the area. Loose powder eventually cakes up so Bauer recommends a translucent powder. “I use a fine mist fixing spray and if you have shine or sweat, simply dry dab with a powder puff,” he says.
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