A lack of vitamin D slows down growth and release of red blood cells into circulation, which cause under-eye skin to darken. This can happen whether or not one has had enough sleep. Make-up artist Saffron Hughes, who has collaborated with FalseEyelashes.co.uk, has shared her top tips on how to conceal dark circles under one’s eyes, as well as decrease the appearance of puffiness.
Saffron explained how under-eye bags can look worse during winter than at any other time of year.
She said: “A lack of vitamin D, which we get from the sun, slows the growth and release of red blood cells into our circulation.
“Not getting enough vitamin D can not only hinder sleep in the first place, but also causes the under-eye skin to darken whether you’ve got your recommended eight hours or otherwise.
“Our skin is also paler which creates a more drastic comparison to the shadows underneath the eyes making them more visible.”
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Make-up can work wonders on under-eye circles, according to Saffron, but before applying any product, it is worth de-puffing the eyes.
The make-up artist explained: “Not prepping the eye area well enough can lead to makeup creasing throughout the day and make you appear even more tired.
“A 60-second trick is to hold two spoons you’ve cooled in the fridge overnight underneath the eyes.
“The temperature reduces the puffiness, whereas the pressure of the spoons can encourage lymphatic drainage.
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“This removes any excess fluid from underneath the eyes. After your eyes are de-puffed, apply your usual eye cream to hydrate the area.”
Focusing on your eyelashes, instead of the under-eye area itself, is a fail-safe way to make you look more awake.
Saffron said: “The art of curling lashes means bending the lashes away from the eye, giving you the illusion of a wider, more awake eye.
“Curled eyelashes are a basic but effective tactic in any professional makeup artist’s bag of tricks. If you find your eyelashes aren’t long enough or holding their curl long enough to make an impact, consider applying natural strip or individual lashes instead.”
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Applying nude eyeliner to the waterline is another trick, according to Saffron. She continued: “White eyeliner helps the whites of your eyes to appear brighter, thus making them look wider and more awake.
“If you’re looking for something more subtle that still has the desired effect, you can apply nude eyeliner to the waterline to brighten the eyes, too.”
If one’s under-eye shadows are “extra dark”, Saffron recommended using a peach-coloured colour corrector, or even lipstick.
She said: “Not everyone requires colour correction as most hydrating concealers will cover dark circles just fine.
“For clients with deep blue eye circles, I’ll use a peach-toned colour corrector to counteract the blue colour underneath the eye. A small dab of peach coloured lipstick would work fine, too.”
The next step is to apply a concealer, but there is a particular way to do it. Saffron said: “It’s very tempting to opt for the thickest concealer that has the best coverage. However, thick concealers can add extra weight underneath the eye and crease later after a few hours. Instead, opt for a light-reflecting concealer that’s both sheer and hydrating.”
An illuminating powder could also work, Saffron said. “An illuminating powder is the best option for under the eye as it reflects the light and brightens the area,” the make-up artist explained.
“A fine milled loose powder can also work, but tap off any excess and go in with a light-hand when applying. Tired eyes are more likely to crease throughout the day so baking or applying a thicker powder may not be an option.”
If all else fails, “focus the attention elsewhere”, Saffron stressed. She added: “Apply a striking lip such as a contrasting red to draw attention to the lips instead of tired eyes. If you’re drawing attention to a luscious pout, no one will notice tired eyes.”